Photos by Nathan Limbach
On my last visit to Edinburgh, Scotland, which took place in the summer following my twenty-first birthday, I primarily spent my time in the Old Town devoted to developing an appreciation for Scotch whisky late into the evenings, and managing the associated (ill) effects. Over the intervening years, my tastes have evolved; I now greatly appreciate the complexities of Scotch, know how to consume it responsibly, and prefer early mornings to late nights, finding greater enjoyment in witnessing sunrises rather than returning home at dawn.
During midsummer in Edinburgh, sunrise occurs at a transitional hour, between when late-night patrons depart pubs and bars, and the earliest waste collection begins. I was visiting the city for a single day prior to returning to the United States and sought to make the most of this brief opportunity by photographing renowned streets and landmarks before the arrival of summer tourists and organized tour groups.
At the end of a week-long golf trip with my father in Western Scotland, we booked our flights out of Edinburgh. Instead of staying in Glasgow or near the airport, I suggested we stay in Edinburgh’s Old Town three stories above the famous Victoria Street in an AirBnB. During dinner, I told him my plan to wake up the following morning around 3:45am local time. He may have choked on his food, and jokingly asked “You okay if I skip that?” I assured him I hadn’t expected him to be interested, and that I would check out the scene and return later so we could have breakfast together in town.
Some mornings, the alarm rings earlier than anticipated, making it challenging to begin the day with enthusiasm. However, on this particular morning, I promptly rose, took my camera, and quietly exited the flat onto Victoria Street. The street, typically crowded with thousands only hours prior, many eager to photograph the iconic multi-colored shopfronts, was now completely deserted. Ascending the hill towards George IV, I climbed the stairs to the second level for a fresh perspective and unexpectedly bumped into a red fox searching for leftover food. To avoid startling the animal, we briefly acknowledged each other before continuing about our business. With no one else in sight, I proceeded along Upper Bow toward Lawnmarket and the entrance of the Castle.
There is a distinct tranquility and aesthetic appeal enjoying a place before it awakens; for those who choose to rise early, the experience is particularly rewarding. Whether walking in a park, along a river, or on a beach, such moments are remarkable, but in one of the world's most beautiful ancient capitals, the effect is truly striking. As I proceeded past St. Giles’ Cathedral along High Street and the Royal Mile, I encountered the impressive bronze statue of philosopher David Hume, notably adorned with a traffic cone, evidently placed as a humorous gesture by a passerby. The opportunity to explore Lady Stair’s Close and Makar’s Court without crowds, free from the need to compete for space or photo opportunities, was genuinely enlightening.
By 6am, I had completed more than 10,000 steps and taken numerous photos that would not have been possible later in the morning. Returning through the University of Edinburgh, along Cowgate to Greyfriars Cemetery and George Heriot’s School, I paused at the Greyfriars Bobby statue, whose bronze muzzle has become polished by frequent contact from visitors. At 6:30am, I met my father, and we went to Luckenbooths in the Old Town Chambers Hotel for a traditional Scottish breakfast to conclude our trip.
I cannot recommend Edinburgh enough as a destination to visit either before or after exploring Scotland's many golf-related sites. A day and night spent in the historic Old Town, as well as in New Town across Princes Street Gardens, is an experience not to be overlooked. And if you can manage it, set the alarm a little earlier, rising early and enjoying the city at dawn may offer a rewarding and memorable perspective.
