If you make the long drive down the A83 along Scotland's Kintyre Peninsula, you will be rewarded with the scenic beauty that the country is famous for. You will also be among some of the most interesting, wild and fun golf anywhere in the world. The Old Tom Morris-designed Machrihanish Championship Links is the blue-ribbon name in the area, but pound-for-pound, the most fun golf course you will play in your life is Dunaverty Golf Club, which sits about 10 miles down the road on the very southern tip of the Mull of Kintyre in Argyll and Bute.
The club was founded in 1889 by the local farmers working the land in the nearby hamlet of Southend. The natural coastal links is named for Dunaverty Rock, a long-established fortification site that once sheltered Robert the Bruce in 1306. The original layout sat entirely on the eastern side of the Conieglen Burn, though it was remodelled and extended shortly before the Second World War, then fell into disrepair after the war and was brought back to life in the 1960s. The links today are truly unique — especially for a par 66 sitting at just about 4800 yards.
We were staying up the road from Dunaverty opposite Machrihanish. After breakfast, when we went to the parking lot the rain was starting to come down. Now, we are in Scotland and the rain is not a surprise. There was some apprehension about driving down to Dunaverty since we knew little of what to expect. We decided that we were up for the adventure and headed out rain or shine.
When we arrived at the simple clubhouse, the rain was gone and the sun was threatening to come out. The tee sheet was wide open, so we paid our £65 summer visitor greens fee and grabbed a cup of tea. As we walked outside, we had some debate as to which way to tee off, as the #1 hole wasn't completely obvious to us. Before long, we were on our way.
If you came from America and this was the first course you played, your head would potentially explode — in the best possible way. The course starts out simple enough, a straight-ahead par four and then a par 3 that rotates you hard right towards a caravan park (why does every incredible links neighbor caravan grounds?) and then. #3 brings you back towards the primary land of the course. The 3rd, 4th and other greens are protected by an electric fence to keep the cows off the green, which is the first sign of the ruggedness that the course will feature heavily. People talk about Brora being wild, THIS place is wild.
We spent 4 days playing Machrihanish (which is a truly excellent golf course), but this one round at Dunaverty is so completely wired into my golf brain. That's the true measure of a course. If you can remember each hole and remember the routing, you know it is something special.
There's so much talk and attention focused on all of the famous courses in Scotland and Ireland, but a little club like Dunaverty is what makes me love links golf. We wanted to go to Kintyre and play one course several times to know it intimately, and Campbelltown is the perfect low-key destination to do that. When you add in the pure fun of a place like Dunaverty, you know you have found someplace truly special. After this round I knew I had to come back and true to my promise, I will see it again this summer. I can't wait.
First of all, The Putt Stop is a great name for the cafe at the club. Further on, these pin sheets meant nothing to us as first timers, but if I could play it again I would study them carefully. There are so many blind shots out the.
On the right is the par 4 9th hole. The fairway intersects with another fairway and it's easy to almost hit other players if they are coming down as you are hitting up. This green is completely hidden from the tee box. I hit a 5 iron to the top of the hill which rolled down to about two feet. A tap in eagle and I had no idea what to hit or where to go. Blind luck as they say. You can see the ball in the photo on the right.
Another view of the 9th on the left. I can't think of a course with more guide posts than this. At right, the world's most unique ball washers. Eat your heart out Par Aide.
After our round, we headed into Campbelltown for a bit of lunch and a look around. I am, of course, familiar with Scottish whisky, but I was unaware of the local delicacy of the munchy box. I think I'll stick to the fish and chips, thank you.
